Across Canada
I started out doing this article about a VIA Rail Across Canada that my hubby and I took a few years back. However, in researching this article since then an overwhelming number of travelers blasted VIA Rail on Tripadvisor - and rightfully so given what I've learned since as a result of their reviews. Most specifically cited unannouced long delays during their trip. I did experience delays during my own trip but I wasn't in any rush to get anywhere so they didn't particularly bother me.
I discovered the reason for these delays: VIA Rail does not own the tracks they operate their trains on. They merely rent them from a railroad agency that does rail freight hauling.
That being the case, any freight trains using those rails have priority of track usage over VIA Rails. This is what's causing the long delays travelers on VIA passenger trains have been complaining about.
Nonetheless, I don't want to mislead any of my viewers so have decided that rather than write about my VIA Rail trip, I'd just highlight places in Canada that are worth a visit if you're planning on visiting Canada. With some emphasis on attractions featuring trains.
I grew up a railroad brat. My grandfather was Yardmaster at the Milwaukee Road train yard in Minneapolist-St. Paul. Therefore, I got to ride the trains for free so I spent quite a bit of my childhood riding the rails and the Hiawatha in particular between Milwaukee and the Twin Cities.
The Hiawatha
My late hubby, John was also a railroad brat. His father worked for the B&O railroad so he grew up riding the rails as well. Both of us having grown up railroad brats, this lead to our lifelong love of trains. In fact, for our honeymoon I surprised hubby with a trip to the Philadelphia B&O eailroad Museum. (How's that for being a good wife?!)
So when we traveled, we were always on the lookout for train attractions and it's been no different with my travels to Canada.
I love the people of Canada. They're a breed onto themselves.
I have a few friends in Canada and seriously...they're the most laid back, friendly, helpful people I've encountered anywhere during my travels. I love our neighbors to the North even more than I've loved visiting their beautiful country. They're just my kind of people and worth a trip to Canada alone.
What's so interesting about Canada is that you'll see a different landscape and scenery In just about any province you travel to - from modern urban centers to Rocky Mountain wilderness and everything in between. Take one of my favorite Canadian cities...
Edmonton
You can be walking among urban skyscrapers one minute and while in the heart of Edmonton, a couple of blocks away still feel like you're in the remote wilderness.
I have no idea how their city planners pulled this off but my hats off to them.
Here's a more standard travel video of the Top 10 Edmonton Attractions.
I heartily agree the West Edmonton Mall is an absolute must see. It is North American's largest mall featuring 800 different stores, laid out just like the video described, into sections made to look like various parts of the world.
Yes, it has an indoor ice rink, huge water park, aquarium (including live penguins), amusement park, mini golf course, and much more. It even has a tropical rainforest.
You can very easily spend a couple of days in the mall and not see and do everything.
And if you have kids, you won't hear "I'M BORED!"
There are over 20 restaurants to choose from within the mall itself.
You probably won't believe what my #1 pick of them would be:
BOSTON PIZZA
I've never been to an American pizza joint that was this good and the service was outstanding.
They have a large selection of food to choose from - dine in or take out. $$
Check out their menu here
Boston Pizaa is located in the New Orleans section of the mall.
The other don't miss attraction in Edmonton is Fort Edmonton Park.
This reminds me a bit of Williamsburg actually, with the employees in period dress and showing the different historical eras of Edmonton.
Fort Edmonton Park is nestled on 158 acres of wooded parkland along Edmonton’s River Valley and began as a Canada Centennial reconstruction project in 1967. And yep, THEY HAVE A STEAM TRAIN!
Plan on it taking a minimum of 3 hours to see and experience the park. Every visit is a new adventure filled with immersive and unique experiences.
They also offer a paranormal tour. Check here for details
I didn't have time to take that tour so can't give you a thumbs up or down on it. I just wanted to mention it's available.
Check out their website for more information including admission prices. You can get tickets online.
My choice of best accommodations in Edmonton:
Fairmont Hotel Macdonald
I just favor Fairmont Hotels period due to their overall consistency as far as professionalism, great customer service, spacious rooms with lots of amenities, good in-hotel restaurants.
Certainly there are less pricey accommodations available but I learned long ago that you get what you pay for. (Prices in summer start at around $460 per night for 2 people) But these days that"s pretty average for a more upscale hotel.
Another reason I like the Fairmont is that patking in Edmonton can be a real headache and the hotel's valet service eliminates that problem.
Of course, if you don't want to drive you can always call a Canadian Uber to get around.
Vancouver
I'm a railroad brat. My grandfather was Yardmaster for the Milwaukee Road in Minneapolis, MN.
[For those unfamiliar with railroading, a yardmaster is responsible for making or breaking trains, switching traffic to other parts of the track, communicating with engineers about where to move cars and how to configure trains, operating switches or facilitating defective car removal.]
At any rate, I spent much of my childhood riding the Milwaukee Road Hiawatha for free between Milwaukee and Grampa's home in Minneapolis-St. Paul.
Hubby, John was also a railroad brat in that his father worked for the B&O railroad. So between the two of us, we had a real love affair with trains going. In fact, I surprised hubby with a trip to the B&O Philadelphia train museum as a honeymoon gift. How's THAT for being a good wife?!
I'd been to Canada previously but when a chance to do a once-in-a-lifetime splurge for a Priority class trip across Canada on the VIA trains we jumped at it.
I dearly love Canada. Not only is it breathtakingly beautiful but the Canadian people are a breed onto themselves...
Just kidding my Canuck friends! Canadians are the most laid back, friendly people I've encountered anywhere in my travels. They're my kind of peeps!
At any rate, I thought I'd invite you along ro travel with me during our Across Canada trip via rail. Priority Class with VIA Rail.
Our Route
Meet you in Vancouver!
WHEW! That was a long trip. Milwaukee to Seattle, then Seattle to Vancouver...but we finally made it to Vancouver airport.
Our VIA ticket includes accommodations and meals so we'll be staying at the Fairmont Hotel.
I have to say I'm impressed. The staff are super friendly and helpful, the hotel well maintained and our room is quite spacious.
We're located right in the heart of the city, close to many of the city's attractions, shops, and restaurants, many within walking distance.
We opted for the add on Flyover Canada Awaken Canada experience so let's head over there.
Awaken Canada is like EPCOT's Soarin' ride.
Normally, tickets would cost you $40 at the door but if you book online you'll get a ticket for $37 per person and save yourself $3 per person.
I don't know about you but we really enjoyed that, especially being too tired from our flights to do a walking tour of Vancouver.
There is so much to see and do in this iconic city. Speak to your rail specialist about adding additional nights and sightseeing experiences in Vancouver. Some highlights include a city or food tours, a day trip out to Victoria, or whale watching.
The great thing about VIA Rail is that you can customize your trip just about any way you wish.
If you wanted to spend an extra day in Vancouver exploring the city, you could and catch a later train to continue your rail journey.
Because we're tired, we're going to catch a nap, then eat dinner at one of the restaurants within the hotel - Notch8.
I've had German weinerschnitzel before...but Chicken Schnitzel?
My curiosity got the better of me so I had to try it. It was delicious!
What did you order?
Let's cap off the meal with an after dinner cocktail and call it a night.
Big day tomorrow!
Good morning! I don't know about you but I was out the minute my head hit the pillow.
I talked to the hotel staff and they recommended Cora for having the best breakfasts within walking distance. The locals always recommend the best places so let's give it a try.
WOW! I ordered a waffle and I think they topped it with an entire fruit stand. I was in heaven.
And there's nothing like real Canadian maple syrup...
We don't have to be at the train station until 2 p.m. for a 3 p.m. departure so let's do a brief walking tour on our way back to the hotel and explore Vancouver a little.
It's changed quite a bit since the last time I was here...
I have a great idea Let's hit up Purdy's Chocolatier and stash up on some chocolates for our trip!
OMG their chocolate is to die for! This means I'll have to take a few quick laps in the hotel pool before we head to Vancouver Station, to burn off these calories though!
That was refreshing but it's about that time. We need to grab our luggage and head over to the train station. I'll call a Canadian Uber to take us there...
Vancouver Station reminds me of the train stations I spent so much time in as a kid. We should never have let our railroads go the way of the past as we have. Sure, it takes longer to get somewhere by train (although with today's airline flights not necessarily!) but I love trains because you don't have to deal with TSA invasive security, DEI unqualified pilots, long layovers, connecting flights, etc. and a safe landing isn't an additional price. I say BRING BACK THE TRAINS!
Case in point...and need I say more, especially on the subject of DEI unqualified pilots who like landing their planes upside down.
Vancouver Train Station
I'm going to head out to the platform to wait for the train. I love the nostalgic smell of rail yards. Care to join me?
Before I forget to mention it...you won't have WIFI or cell phone service for much of this trip, especially out here in the mostly wilderness portion of Canada. Doesn't bother me, I like talking face-to-face with people and have met some fascinating ones that way. I think it's half the fun of riding the rails and I enjoy that break from technology.
Ya know, when I was a little kid riding the Hiawatha, going between cars scared me to death.
I was always afraid the cars would come apart at that seam that joined 2 cars together. I think my fear came from the fact my grampa got crushed between 2 cars he was uncoupling and it broke his back. So I'd either jump over that seam between the 2 cars that swung back and forth as the train moved or I'd make my Grampa carry me over that seam.
Then I got a little older and when my grampa lost track of me, he knew just where to go - the seam where the 2 cars were coupled together. I'd be riding that seam as it swung back and forth and tell my grampa "LOOK GRAMPA! I'M JIGGLING!" Then he couldn't get me off the thing.
Well now that you mention it...yes, I was a hellion as a kid.
I think I hear our train coming.
The Canadian pulling into Vancouver Station
It's backing into the station. Must be the east to west Canadian getting ready to reverse direction and head back on the east to west route.
I should mention here that VIA Rail does a superb job of catering to disabled guests and helping them get back and forth at depot stops and also in boarding the train. Mention you're disabled when making a reservation to VIA and also don't hesitate to ask train employees to help you at depot stops if necessary. VIA also has handicap accessible cabins on the train.
Let's board and get settled in our cabins and I'll give you a tour of the Canadian. We depart Vancouver Station at 3 p.m.
Sorry, I couldn't resist. I'm a train nerd. LOL
Day 1 and a tour of the Canadian
As I said before there are 3 passenger classes:
Prestige
Sleeper Plus
Economy
Prestige
Our cabins are the most spacious with an L shaped leather couch that converts into a queen sized Murphy bed. An oversized window facing the bed allows one to lie on the bed relaxing while catching a great view of the passing scenery.
Prestige cabins also have a flat screen TV with preloaded content.
Prestige cabins also have a private bathroom with shower.
We have a concierge to pamper us - including putting fresh sheets on our beds, making the bed up in the morning and nightly turn down service. Toiltrires and linens furnished.
Inside the dining car enjoy freshly cooked meals, regional specialties, Canadian wines and a view that won’t disappoint. Prrestige passengers also enjoy priority seating for meals. We have access to the Prestige lounge car near the rear of the train as well as access to other lounges and the scenic dome car.
Sleeper Plus
These private cabins include folding chairs by day for sitting as you enjoy the scenery streaming past your window. At night, your room attendant pulls the bed out to prepare your room for a restful evening. Cabins include a window with blinds and a private toilet with a sink and full mirror. Shower facilities are available at the end of the car and are shared.
Economy
In Economy one doesn't get a bed. They sleep in their train seats. Additional pillows and blankets are an additional charge.
Economy might be okay if one were only spending a single night on the train but I couldn't hack sleeping in a chair for four nights.
Economy passengers can choose from a selection of affordable meals, snacks, beverages, cooked meals and alcoholic drinks on board the Skyline car. Meals and drinks are not included in the ticket price.
Economy passengers have access to the Skyline car and its viewing dome.
Interestingly renough not even the VIA Rail website has much information about Economy class so here's a video that shows and explains all about Economy class.
Continuing our tour, this is the Skylight dome car.
A more comprehensive look at the interior of the train.
Dining
Even though Prestige passengers get priority seating one does have to make reservations due to the fact that with so many passengers aboard they must feed everyone in more than one seating. So we can make our reservations while touring the train.
Check out these menus!
Yes, the food is as good as it looks.
Riding the Hiawatha as a kid I pretty much had the run of the train due to my grampa working for Milwaukee Road. I'd often visit the kitchen car where my dear friend, Willie was a chef. He'd let me watch them cook as long as I stayed out of their way.
My grampa had given me the nickname "Scoop" which was how all the Hiawatha crew knew me as.
Old Willie would say to me "Now Scoop, this here is how y'all make [fill in the dish]."
It always amazed me how the kitchen crew could work so efficiently in such tight quarters, all the while the train swaying back and forth on its rails. I'm sure 'ol Willie has long since gone to that big kitchen in the sky but all these years later I still think of Willie from time to time. Funny what memories stick with you.
I catch myself wondering what Willie would say if he saw the kitchen on the Canadian?
It's not quite a car length long and can fit 4 chefs. Yet it looks like a restaurant kitchen.
How things have changed since Willie's day, eh?
I think I'll try the Rack of Lamb for dinner. How about you? What looked appetizing to you?
Have to say I was pleasantly surprised. I was expecting something akin to the much hyped Business Class "gourmet" airline fare - which is abysmal and nothing remotely close to gourmet.
Look gourmet to you? just another reason I hate airlines now.
Let's hit the Prestige Lounge for a nightcap and then I'm going to head to my favorite after dark spot on a train - the dome car at night. Usually everyone has turned in for the night so you have the car to yourself and can watch the night sky. You're welcome to join me...
Day 2
Good morning! Up for some breakfast?
Today we travel through the province of Alberta, passing through the Canadian Rockies and the cosmopolitan city of Edmonton.
We'll have 2 short stops - one in Jasper and one in Edmonton. Both are only 1 hour long so just time enough to walk around a little and stretch our legs.
Jasper is a municipality that got its start as a trading outpost. Now it's most noted for being the location of Jasper National Park and a resort town.
Tragically, in July 2024, a wildfire complex developed in Jasper National Park in Alberta, Canada. Fires formed north and south of the resort town of Jasper and grew out of control, and on July 22 they forced a mass evacuation of 25,000 residents, workers, and visitors. The fires merged and swept through the town, wiping out over 50% of the town.
Here's a video of a train going through Jasper Natl. Park after the fires burned out the park.
Thankfully everyone was evacuated in time so no one died but I shudder to think of the potential wildlife loss within the park. It had to be astronomical with flames being 300-400 feet high.
EDMONTON
Edmonton is another beautiful and interesting city and it's very unique to say the least. You can be walking among modern skyscrapers one minute and feel like you're in the middle of the wilderness the next.
If you ever get the chance to visit Edmonton, do so, You won;t regret it There are 2 must see's on my Edmonton list.
The first is the West Edmonton Mall, the largest mall in North America with 800 stores.
It also features an indoor ice arena, a huge water park with a full scale old ship sitting in it, mini golf course, some fantastic restaurants and even live penguins. It puts our Mall of America to shame. Kids would love it and you can easily spend an entire day there and not see everything.
The second must see is Fort Edmunton Park. It reminded me a bit of our Williamsburg. And it has a steam train!
Best way to see the park.
As for the rest of our train hourney today we the exception of those 2 brief stops, we can just relax, enjoy the ride and the scenery. We're in the heart of the Rockies so there should be plenty to see.
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