Yellowstone & Cody, WY

what to know before going to yellowstone

There's only one way to see Yellowstone - by car. If you travel both the Upper and Lower Loops of Yellowstone, it will take you a full day. If you really want to see Yellowstone plan on spending at least a couple of days there. So if you're flying in, you're going to want to rent a car.

Yellowstone Natl. Park has numerous entrances. Generally, which entrance you use will be determined by what airport you fly into. Here's a map:

In general, Bozeman, Billings, and Jackson Hole will have the most flight options. The Yellowstone Airport and Yellowstone Regional Airport in Cody are both smaller airports and flight schedules are limited and fares generally high.

(We didn't fly into Yellowstone, we drove all 3 trips.)

Before we get into exploring the park, you might want to download the free NPS (Natl. Park Service) guided tour app.

One app, every park at your fingertips. The NPS App is the new official app for the National Park Service with tools to explore more than 400 national parks nationwide. Find interactive maps, tours of park places, on-the-ground accessibility information, and much more to plan your national park adventures before and during your trip.

The NPS App is currently available on iOS and Android mobile devices. It can be downloaded for free through the App Store and Google Play. Since cell reception isn't reliable at Yellowstone National Park, be sure to download the app and save for offline use before coming to the park. This can be done through the toggle switch located at the top of the Yellowstone section of the app.

You can book a guided tour of Yellowstone but in investigating current guided tour fares, I found them to be ungodly expensive, usually from $850 per person to over $1000 per person and then you're usually tied into their schedule, not necessarily your schedule.

admission

Admission to Yellowstone Natl. Park is currently $35.

If you are entering at the South Entrance, you will first need to drive through Grand Teton National Park, which also has its own entrance fee of $35.

We recommend buying a National Parks pass like the America the Beautiful Pass if you plan on visiting both national parks, since it will save you money if you visit even just one more national park in the same 12 month period.

Most of the sites managed by the National Park Service are free to visit, but some require an entrance pass. You may also need a reservation at a few high-traffic sites.

Frequent visitors, seniors, military, and others may save money on entrance fees with an America the Beautiful—the National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass, also known as an America the Beautiful or interagency pass. Review all pass options here and decide which pass is best for you.

To get a national parks pass, you can:

Visit a federal recreation site in person and buy the pass there.
Call 888-ASK USGS (1-888-275-8747), extension 3, and order the pass by phone. The hours of operation are 8 am to 4 pm Mountain Time.
Go online and buy the pass from the USGS store. You will have to pay processing and shipping fees for online orders.
Mail an application form (558KB PDF) and purchase the pass by mail.

Grand Teton Park is right next door to Yellowstone so when planning your vacation, you might want to consider buying an annual park pass and seeing both parks during your trip. It's actually most economical to purchase the annual pass for most people.

accommodations

If you're planning on visiting Yellowstone during the peak summer months, know that places to stay will book up well in advance.

There are beautiful in-park accommodations in Yellowstone, like the famous Old Faithful Inn but you are going to pay a starting price of around $525.00 per night for what amounts to a standard hotel room with 1 or 2 beds.

Yellowstone National Park has a number of historic lodges and inns in the park. Rooms book up fast, so plan ahead if you're goinog to stay in the park. You can make reservations at Yellowstone hotels here.

Hotels in the park:

Canyon Lodge and Cabins
Grant Village Lodge
Lake Hotel and Cabins
Lake Lodge Cabins
Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and Cabins
Old Faithful Inn
Old Faithful Lodge
Old Faithful Snow Lodge
Roosevelt Lodge

There's also soft sided and hard sided camping in the park, the areas depending on bear visits. When I was a kid and went the first time with my family, my dad took us in a pop up camper (soft sided). It was so cold my dad slap with his PJ bottoms wrapped around his head and what did we run into in the restroom first thing the next morning? Bears don't read signs.

During hubby's and my second trip we camped in the hard sided camping area (and never saw one bear!), sleeping in our conversion van and coupled that with traditional motel stays.

On our last trip we stayed 1 mile outside of the western Yellowstone entrance in Gray Wolf Inn & Suites. It was nothing fancy but all we were doing was sleeping there and occasionally cooking so the suite fit our needs and at a much more reasonable price than in-park accommodations.

A friend of mine just returned from Yellowstone and highly recommended the new Golden Stone Inn. I don't know that you can really call them "rooms" since all units are located in private cabins or triplex cabins with only 3 rooms per cabin.

Golden Stone Inn

There are multiple entrances to Yellowstone Park. The Golden Stone Inn is located one mile from the west gate to Yellowstone Park. My friend said they paid slightly less than they would have staying in the park itself and had their own private cabin. U.S. Park Lodging website lists a private cabin with a king bed starting at $239 but I would check with the Inn itself on pricing.

The private cabins have one king bed. Every cabin is equipped with a mini-refrigerator, coffee center, smart TV with cable, wireless internet, air conditioning and a private front porch.
There are a mini market and gourmet snack shop with alcohol on site.

I mention The Golden Stone Inn simply because my friend raved about it so I thought it worth mentioning.

Like the hotels within the park, the campsites in Yellowstone National Park also book up fast. You can make check campsite availability and make reservations here.

Famous for being the world’s first national park (it was established back in 1872), Yellowstone National Park is a gorgeous area in the state of Wyoming that has become one of the most popular national parks in the USA.

Warning: You will smell a strong sulphur smell through most of the park!

what to see in yellowstone

Of course, everyone wants to see Old Faithful. But honestly? It's overrated. We sat there for over an hour waiting for the thing to blow and had just gotten up to leave when it decided to finally erupt.

I even said to my husband "We sat here for over an hour waiting to see that?!!"

He wasn't overly impressed so it wasn't just me. Old Faithful is one of those things you do it just to say you've seen it or you skip it altogether. Note that it doesn't go off like clockwork. It erupts every 45 to 125 minutes...so you could be sitting there twiddling your thumbs for over an hour like we were.

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS

The Springs are pretty unique, especially for their terraces, which were formed over hundreds of years as the calcium carbonate. Apparently, this is all formed from the hot water cooled and hardened, leaving behind the intricate structures.

Watch for elk while there! They like to graze around Mammoth Hot Springs.

YELLOWSTONE'S GRAND CANYON

Yellowstone has its own Grand Canyon. The views are stunning and it's a favorite hiking area in the park.

For the best viewpoints in the Canyon, head to Lookout Point and Red Rock Point, where you can take in the incredible sights of the Canyon as well as the waterfall from the Yellowstone River.

It really is one of the best things to see in Yellowstone.

OJO CALIENTE POOL

The constantly-boiling Ojo Caliente pool is well worth seeing, too. The pool is located near the Lower Geyser Basin. Though don’t ever attempt to go close to the pools, the heat (and gases) can be lethal.

HAYDEN VALLEY

If it's wildlife you want to see then head to Hayden Valley. Located just north of Yellowstone Lake, the area is a favorite spot to find elk, coyotes, bison, and bears.

There are also two well-known hiking trails in the area, the Hayden Valley Trail and the Mary Mountain Trail.

And PLEASE give all wildlife a wide berth!
There's no such thing as "Pet a Buffalo Season" unless you have a death wish.

VISIT THE WOLF & GRIZZLY DISCOVERY CENTER

LAMAR VALLEY

If you would prefer to view wolf packs out in the wild, head to Lamar Valley. This is THE spot for finding wolves, as well as coyotes, grizzly bears, bison, and elk. For the truly serious wolf-fan, the Yellowstone Forever has wolf-tracking excursions throughout the park that you can always join.
(They don't have their 2025 wolf excursions posted yet on their website so check back)

You might want to check out the rest of Yellowstone Forever's website though as they have a multitude of programs on various subjects available.

The best times to look for wolves and bears in Lamar Valley are in the early mornings and just around sunset.

VISIT STEAMBOAT GEYSER

Steamboat is actually taller than Old Faithful and, with eruptions as high as 300 and 400 feet, Steamboat is in fact the tallest geyser in the world!

It is found in the Norris Geyser Basin, which formed around 100,000 years ago.

The area around Steamboat is the oldest active geothermal spot in the country and you can take daily tours from the Norris Museum make Steamboat and its surroundings easy to explore.

HAVE A DRINK IN THE MAP ROOM AT MAMMOTH INN

If you’re looking for a charming spot to unwind after a day of exploring Yellowstone, the Map Room at Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is an excellent choice. Located in the historic Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, this cozy lounge offers a unique blend of relaxation and character.

The Map Room is named for its distinctive decor, featuring vintage maps and historic photographs that provide a fascinating glimpse into the park’s past. The room’s ambiance is both inviting and rustic, with comfortable seating and a warm, lodge-like atmosphere.

In addition to its drink offerings, the Map Room occasionally features live music or other events.

VISIT FORT YELLOWSTONE

Exploring Fort Yellowstone is a fascinating dive into the park’s rich history. Located near the Mammoth Hot Springs area, Fort Yellowstone offers a glimpse into the early 20th century when the U.S. Army played a crucial role in the protection and administration of Yellowstone National Park.

A self-guided walking tour is available, allowing you to explore the fort at your own pace. Informational signs and exhibits provide insights into the daily life of the soldiers stationed here, as well as the challenges they faced in preserving Yellowstone’s natural wonders. The tour also highlights the transition of park management from the military to the National Park Service, marking a significant shift in the park’s history.

GIBBON FALLS

The falls are about 84 feet tall and cascade gracefully over a broad, rock-strewn ledge, creating a wide, fan-like spray that is especially stunning in the morning light. The viewpoint is conveniently situated right off the road, making it easy to pull over and enjoy the view. A short, paved path from the parking area leads to an elevated vantage point.

visit cody, wyoming

My first visit to Cody, WY was when I was in high school and my dad had a dental convention out there. We stayed in Buffalo Bill Court and I fell in love with the place.

We stayed in one of its many cabins for rent. There was an old fashioned Western outdoor covered cookout and dining area, a swimming pool, a theater where we watched a melodrama, an old fashioned saloon where sarsaparilla was served. I met and hung out with Buffalo Bill's great grandson.

Years later I returned to Cody to find Buffalo Bill Court was now nothing but a cement parking lot. So much for "progress".

Nevertheless, there are still plenty of things to see and do in Cody and it's still one of my favorite places to visit.

BUFFALO BILL CENTER

The Wild West comes to life in the 5 museums of the Buffalo Bill Center - Native American culture, famous cowboys and cowgirls, western art and more. There's also hands-on experiences like a chuckwagon dinner, live birds of prey and behind-the-scenes tours.

Buffalo Bill Center is a Smithsonian Affiliate, located just 50 miles from the East Gate of Yellowstone.

A ticket is good for 2 days of viewing the museums and costs $23 for adults, $22 for seniors, $21 for students with a valid ID, $16 for kids 5-17 and kids under 5 get in free. Active U.S. Military also get in free. It was the best $23 I ever spent as there was so much to see and do.

BEST OF THE WEST TROLLEY TOUR OF CODY

A trolley ride was a great way to see Cody. Cruise around town for 1 hour and see several key landmarks including the dam, Old Trail Town, the Cody Mural and Museum, and the rodeo. While you drive, your guide regales you of the history of the town including stories of the famous American soldier, Buffalo Bill, who founded Cody.

Best of Cody information book, free for each party on the Trolley Tour!

WHITEWATER RAFT THE SHOSHONE RIVER

I've whitewater rafted the Shoshone River twice now and it was a BLAST! I took my first rafting trip with River Runners, founded in 1967 by Buffalo Bill's great grandson, Kit. My trip was compliments of Kit. (I think he appreciated I was adventurous like himself? Sadly, Kit was piloting his plane down near his other home in Florida when it crashed, killing Kit and his brother, Barry in 2013.)

But if you have time to swing a whitewater rafting trip by all means do it!

TAKE IN THE CODY NITE RODEO

You can't travel West without seeing a rodeo. Cody Nite Rodeo is held nightly during the summer months of June through August in Cody.

This action-packed event showcases the skill, bravery, and athleticism of both professional and amateur riders, as they compete in a variety of exciting rodeo events, including bull riding, barrel racing, and team roping.

- Gates Open: 7:00 p.m.

- Rodeo Begins: 8:00 p.m.

It's recommended you purchase your admission tickets online to reserve your seat.

VISIT OLD TRAIL TOWN

Old Trail Town is one of the most popular family friendly western destinations and is conveniently located just off US HWY 16-20-14 on your way to the East entrance of Yellowstone National Park.

On this site in 1895, western scout and showman, William F. (“Buffalo Bill”) Cody, laid out the original town site of Cody, Wyoming, which was named in his honor.

Old Trail Town is an outdoor museum full of authentic buildings from the 1890's.

Today Old Trail Town preserves the lifestyle and history of the Frontier West through a rare collection of authentic structures and furnishings. From remote locations in Wyoming and Montana these historic buildings were carefully disassembled, moved and reassembled here at Old Trail Town by Western historian Bob Edgar and friends.

Located here also are thousands of historic artifacts from the Old West and grave sites of several notable Western figures. Among them is the grave of mountain man John Johnston, who was portrayed by the actor Robert Redford in the 1972 motion picture “Jeremiah Johnson”.

Here too are original cabins used by Old West outlaws Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and a Wyoming saloon frequented by Cassidy’s “Hole-in-the-Wall Gang”. Also on this site is the log cabin home of “Curley” a Crow Indian army scout who helped guide Lt Col. George A. Custer and the U.S. 7th Cavalry to the battle of the Little Big Horn in 1876. Old Trail Town exists today as a memorial to the uniquely American experience known throughout the world as “the Old West”.

The most expensive admission ticket is $12 and I thought it was worth every penny. (I actually enjoyed Old Trail Town more than I did Yellowstone.)

VISIT KERWIN GHOST TOWN

Kirwin Ghost Town is an old abandoned mining camp located in Shoshone Natl. Forest.
Kirwin is a self guided tour where YOU DRIVE on existing roads through 75 miles of really great scenery to reach the mining camp.

You will travel some rough terrain (paved roads to gravel roads to dirt roads) as you can see in the video above and you will make several water crossings. Appropriate off road vehicles (Side by Sides) and supplies are included in your rental.
Total price is: One SxS (6 people) for 9 hours, $449. or less than $60 per hour or $10 per person + fees and taxes. Rental fee is per vehicle, not per person. Bookings must be done online.

They supply Coolers, Water, Jackets, Blankets, Towels, 1st Aid Kits, Rain Ponchos, Napkins

Phone Chargers, Sunscreen, Hand Sanitizer, Lotion, Portable Propane Grill, Trash Bags, Garmin InReach Satellite Texting Unit, we put GPS Waypoints -on your phone - Maps, more. They also furnish helmets for riders under 18 years of age.

Layered clothing is recommended.

CONSIDER STAYING AT THE BILL CODY (DUDE) RANCH

Buckaroo King Cabin - sleeps 2

John and I absolutely loved this place. All of the cabins are in beautiful settings and the interiors are really nice...and clean. VERY reasonably priced for the area! Oh...and a creek runs through the property.

You can access Bill Cody Ranch either from Yellowstone or Cody, Wyoming.

From Yellowstone's East entrance, drive 26 miles on HWY 14-16-20 and turn right onto the gravel road by the Bill Cody Ranch sign.

Just as easy from Cody. Head west on HWY 14-16-20 from Cody, drive 26 miles on HWY 14-16-20 and turn left onto the gravel road by the Bill Cody Ranch sign.

The ranch is near the East entrance to Yellowstone.

As you can see from the slideshow above, they have a number of different cabins with different configurations. We booked early so got the Buckaroo King Cabin for 2. (It rents fast)

It was very nice with a large bathroom so suited our needs just fine. Rents from $185 to $210 per night.

But the draw was that it was a dude ranch with horseback riding, outdoor creekside Saturday night cook outs followed by a marshmallow roast - June through August.

Hubby loved anything Old West and grew up in the moutains of Utah so he was in 7th heaven. The trail rides up into the mountains were spectacular - and I don't even like horses that much.
During the trail ride you can see Buffalo Bill Reservoir and you have a meal on the trail, cooked over the fire with an overlook of Shoshone Natl. Forest.

There's also an old West saloon and a dining room that serves breakfast and dinner. They'll even prepare a picnic basket for you if you want to eat out in nature.
They did offer all inclusive packages if you wanted meals included in your stay.

I loved the handcarved barstools in the Saddlesore Saloon. All of the furniture at the ranch is handmade.

You can also practice your roping skills on dummy steers or play a game of horseshoes.

For the kids there's pony rides and a game room with ping pong, foosball and air hockey.

I highly recommend the Bill Cody Ranch if you want a taste of the Old West during your trip.

GO HANG GLIDING
I was fortunate enough to have a college roommate whose brother was a hang gliding instructor so I got hooked on hang gliding early in life.

It's the ultimate adrenaline rush!

Contact Airborne Over Cody to book a motorized hang gliding flight. You'll be glad you did!
No experience is necessary as an experienced FAA certified flight instructor will take you up 3000 feet in an open cockpit hang glider, where you'll have a bird's eye view of Cody and Yellowstone.

Photos of your flight will be available for purchase.

Reservations are required. All flights are weather permitting and there is a weight limit of 220 pounds. They operate 7 days a week from sunrise to sunset.

If you want to know what it's like to be an eagle soaring, this is as close as you'll get.

WATCH A GUNFIGHT IN THE STREET

I was glad to see Cody still has its gunfight in the street!

This free and entertaining shoot-out is always listed as a “must see” on the list of things to do when visiting Cody.

Performances run Monday through Saturday (no Sunday
performances) from June 4th through September 22nd right in the street in front of Buffalo Bill’s Historic Irma Hotel. Four different 30-minute shows are rotated throughout summer and they all end in a blaze of gunfire! Crowds often swell to 500+ to stand and view this each performance. The show is free and there is limited

seating on picnic tables, curbs and rock walls available on a first-come, first-served basis. The show starts at 6:00, but you will want to be in your seat by 5:50 to not miss anything!

Cody Trolley Tours offers the most comfortable way to watch the nightly show! We offer RESERVED SEATING for just $3 per chair. We put your name on a folding chair so you can arrive a moment before the show and be assured a great seat! Half the rent-a-chair profits go to gunfighter charities. Reserve your gunfight chairs, call for reservations today at 307-527-7043, or come to the Cody Trolley Tours ticket booth on the porch of the Irma Hotel as soon as you arrive in Cody to ensure the best seats in the house!

Since we'd taken the trolley ride we took advantage of the reserved seating and boy, am I glad we did as this shoot out draws a big crowd. Was definitely worth the $3 and a great view of the show.

Cody will always remain one of my favorite towns to visit.

A FINAL NOTE:
One of hubby's and my trips to Yellowstone was in 1988. On our way out of the park, I saw a sizeable forest fire to our right. This was before cell phones.

I told hubby "Turn around! We have to go back and tell them about this fire!" I said.
"Oh, I'm sure they already know about it," he replied.
"And what if they don't?!!" I demanded.
He refused to turn around and drive back into the park to alert them to this fire.

We got home and what did we see on the news that evening?

Yeah...one third of Yellowstone burned to the ground! There's no doubt in my mind we saw the start of that fire on our way out of the park. Had hubby listened and turned the car around, perhaps we could've saved one third of Yellowstone from burning to the ground!

PLEASE if you're ever anywhere like visiting our National Forests and you see a fire, take the time to report it even if it delays your travel plans slightly!